Ethanol in Cosmetics: Useful, Controversial, and Evolving

Safety and transparency at the heart of cosmetic manufacturing

Ethanol, also known as ethyl alcohol, is one of the most widely used ingredients in cosmetic products. Found in many perfumes, skincare for oily skin, and sanitizing gels, it is valued for its versatility: it helps dissolve ingredients, provides a lightweight finish, dries quickly, and limits bacterial growth.

But despite all its benefits, ethanol also raises questions. At certain concentrations, it can become irritating or drying, especially for sensitive skin. How can the cosmetics industry continue to benefit from its properties without compromising skin safety or comfort? This article proposes a balanced approach between science, transparency, and innovation.

The Essential Roles of Ethanol in Cosmetic Formulations

Studies have shown that ethanol enhances the penetration of certain active ingredients through the skin, which can boost the efficacy of treatments. A molecular modeling study demonstrated that ethanol disrupts the lipid organization of the stratum corneum, thereby facilitating the transdermal diffusion of active molecules (“Molecular mechanism of the skin permeation enhancing effect of ethanol: A molecular dynamics study,” Molecular Pharmaceutics, 2020).

The effectiveness of ethanol depends greatly on its concentration. At low levels (below 10%), it is generally well tolerated. However, above 20%, side effects may appear, such as weakening of the skin barrier and an increase in transepidermal water loss. Some individuals, particularly those with sensitive skin, may experience irritation, dryness, or even mild inflammation.

Towards Smarter Use of Ethanol

Given the limitations of ethanol, especially in terms of skin tolerance and rapid evaporation, the cosmetics industry is now exploring innovative approaches to optimize its use or eliminate it when it's not essential. Among these solutions are nanoemulsions. This gentle delivery method reduces the risk of irritation while extending the effects of moisturizing or fragrant actives throughout the day. It also enhances the overall sensory experience by avoiding concentration peaks often responsible for skin reactions.

Innovating Differently: MORPHO’s Droplet Control Technology

At Klearia, we believe the key lies in innovation. That’s why we developed Droplet Control Technology, which makes it possible to create ultra-fine nanoemulsions without the need for ethanol or other harsh solvents.

Based on precision microfluidic technology, Droplet Control enables the creation of light, stable, and pleasant textures while facilitating the dispersion of actives within the formula. This opens the way to a new generation of products like alcohol-free perfumes or skincare designed for sensitive skin that are more respectful of the skin’s natural balance.

We provide formulators with a tool to push responsible innovation further: reconciling performance, comfort, and safety without compromise. At Klearia, we believe that it is possible to formulate differently with rigor, with responsibility, and with ambition.